Access to water is essential to any permaculture system. In permaculture design, we attempt to harvest and retain as much water as possible before it leaves the system. A good first step is to observe the water patterns on your land — the direction water flows, where it pools, where it could be diverted or collected. How can we keep as much water as possible on our land? Where can it be stored?

Knowing the local climate, rainfall levels, rainy seasons, and any water limitations is also helpful. In times of low rainfall, we want water to percolate slowly into our plants, keeping it at the highest point of the property for as long as possible. In times of high rainfall, excess water may need to be directed to a tank, cistern, or pond.

It is also helpful to understand where your site is on the local watershed. Where does the water come from, and where does it go? How do our choices affect the system as a whole?

Here in Dunnellon, we’re in the Withlacoochee River watershed where the Rainbow Springs add groundwater to the River. Nearly half of the watershed here is wetlands and forests which has kept the local watershed pretty healthy. The Upper Floridan Aquifer system lies beneath the watershed. In our area, the aquifer comes closer to the surface so there are many springs nearby. The groundwater here is fresh, and our well water is wonderful.

Our property is roughly a mile from the spring-fed Rainbow River and about two miles from the Withlacoochee River. We receive an average of 53 inches of rain per year here which helps to replenish the aquifer. Groundwater currently provides all water supply needs within the watershed. However, with population growth in Florida, it may not be able to supply the demand for long. We need to act now to prevent a water crisis. One way we can make a difference is on our own property.

Slow, Spread and Sink Water

Permaculture design projects should result in low impacts on natural resources by mimicking the natural water cycle and attempting to reuse and recycle water throughout the system. Our goal for water management is to slow, spread, and sink water in the landscape.

The slower water passes through a system, the more time it has to absorb what is needed, and the less likely that there will be any erosion. Good permaculture design will increase the soil’s ability to retain water and recharge the aquifers.

Soil is the most natural way to store water — and soil that is rich in organic matter will have the capacity to retain more. Ground cover plants and mulch reduces surface evaporation by protecting soil from the sun and wind. As water percolates through the soil, it will become deeply saturated, supporting growth in our food forests and replenishing water tables.

Swales slow water on the way down a slope allowing it to absorb into the soil or directing it into ponds or rain gardens. There is no slope on our lot at all (or anywhere nearby), so swales are not needed and all the rainwater that we don’t collect drains into the soil with no runoff at all.

Harvest and Store Rainwater

When collecting rainwater, tanks should be placed at the highest point on the property so gravity will distribute the stored water. In our case, there is no highest point on our level lot. We placed our first rain barrel upon a stone base so that water can drain out of it easier. Hand pumps can also be installed if needed. Soaker hoses attached to rain barrels can offer consistent moisture and conserve water.

Using Toby Hemenway’s formula for projecting how much water can be collected from a rooftop (see below), I estimated that around 39,750 per year could be collected from the roof on our house. An additional 5296 from two sheds gives us a potential total of over 45,000 gallons per year for use after the rainy season has passed.

Water should not sit in a rain barrel for more than a week to avoid algae growth. Our rain barrel is opaque and in the shade, so there should be less of a risk of algae. In rain barrels with an opening at the top, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt – a microbe naturally found in soil) can be used to kill mosquito larvae in an eco-friendly way.

Put the Right Plants in the Right Place

The amount of water available will determine which plants to grow. Native plants are often drought tolerant and better equipped for survival. Whatever grows in an area naturally will always require less maintenance. Group plants according to water requirements whenever possible and avoid plants with high water requirements, then mulch to keep the soil moist. Putting plants close together can also help retain moisture.

Work toward eliminating, or at least reducing the amount of grass in the yard. In areas we have grass, it helps to set mower blades higher because longer grass will allow less water to evaporate from the ground. Keep in mind though that half of the public water supply currently goes toward watering private lawns!

Pots and raised beds require more water than planting in the ground. As the sun heats up the container, it dries out the soil inside it (especially with metal walled beds). I no longer use raised beds, but I do like to push growing zones for a few fun plants and keep them in pots that can be moved to safety when a frost is predicted.

Water Wisely

It’s best not to water plants a small amount daily. Watering less often and more deeply will encourage plants to strengthen their roots. Deeper root systems will also help the plants access nutrients deeper in the soil. Giving a quick water will only lead to shallow root systems and unhealthy plants.

We need to water wisely. Early morning hours will help avoid wasteful evaporation from the sun and protect plants from scorching. Whenever possible, water the ground underneath the plants and not on their foliage which can encourage fungus and disease.

Check the weather to determine whether rainwater will handle the task. Rainwater gathers nitrogen as it passes through the atmosphere and offers it to plants in a form they can easily absorb, stimulating more growth than water from other sources—an added bonus!

Experiment with gradual reductions in irrigation to see if plants can tolerate less water. Again, work with nature. In a natural setting, plants aren’t watered every day.

Up Next: Closing the Loop on Water Use

Water is such a huge issue, it can’t be covered in one post alone. In my next post, we’ll explore how to close the loop on water use and deal with tricky topics such as gray water, blackwater, and septic systems—and natural alternatives for dealing with the waste in our system.

Even small changes can make a huge difference. If we each changed even a few of our water-wasting habits, it would make a positive impact on the health of the aquifer.

FLORIDA WATER RESOURCES:

WateReuse Florida

Florida Water Environment Association

USGS Florida Water Science Center

Florida Water Management Districts

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