Most of us dream of a low-maintenance, no-mow lawn bustling with pollinators. Alternative lawns are growing in popularity. While it has long been a goal, I had procrastinated — choosing to focus my efforts on developing my backyard food forest first. Until one day we could literally wait no longer. Our septic system needed replacing, making the project a priority. Join me on this journey as I explore the alternatives to a traditional grass lawn. I will share the results over the coming year as I navigate this process through all four seasons.

When considering our options, there seemed to be three main ground cover contenders: Perennial Peanut Eco-turf, Frog Fruit, and Sunshine Mimosa. So I decided to experiment with all three.

Early Experimentation

I had done small-scale plantings in the backyard with perennial peanut and sunshine mimosa. Both were often available at our local nurseries.

In my early growing tests, Sunshine Mimosa was an epic failure in both transplant and direct sown seed. I cleared an area along a pathway that received morning shade and several hours of sun beginning in mid-afternoon. The seed never germinated in-ground. The ones I started indoors, germinated but never really thrived. Once outside, they remained small and fragile. I also attempted growing them from seed purchased from two separate and reliable sources with similar results.

Then, I noticed a healthy Sunshine Mimosa ground cover planting at a local strip mall. While it wasn’t what I would call particularly attractive, it was more robust than anything I’d attempted, so I knew it could be grown successfully in our area. I recently bought three more healthy plants from a reputable local nursery to test in a shady area in the front yard. Already, two are looking dry despite daily watering to get them established (note: this actually may have been due to overwatering). I will continue to observe them and will also attempt to establish a few in a partial shade in the front where I hope it will thrive.

Just a few yards away, I planted a few perennial peanut plants, purchased from the same nursery, and planted them the same day. These plants are lush and thriving despite being in full sun and subjected to nightly raiding by the neighborhood bunnies. They have spread nicely and produce adorable little yellow flowers. So I have added more as a border to the mulched areas.

Frog fruit was not something I could find at any local nurseries, perhaps because it’s considered even more of a weed. I found healthy cuttings from an Etsy vendor (Yard Yummies) and they rooted easily in water.

The Frightful, “Fortuitous” Event

A grass-alternative lawn was something I’d long wished for. But diving into the task can be so daunting, that it’s easy to procrastinate and focus on other projects. We’d suspected that our septic system would soon be toast. There were gurglings in the plumbing that had given us pause — and we knew that the huge oak tree an earlier homeowner had planted near the septic system spelled eventual disaster. And yet, when it finally came time to remove the tree and replace the system the one redeeming factor in the whole expensive event was that we’d have a grass-free front yard. Ready or not!

My backyard experimental patches hadn’t quite had time to give me results I was comfortable with for selecting a grass alternative. But I suddenly needed to acquire plant material in volume. Ideally, the planting project would have started in February here in North Central Florida zone 9a, but the new drain field wasn’t completed until late March. I put the first test plantings in the first week of April, and as they seemed to settle in, I added more each week with growing confidence.

Thankfully, Duke Energy trimmed trees in our neighborhood in March and I acquired two huge loads of arborist mulch. I spread this along the borders of the front yard creating planting areas that would add interest to the ground cover experiments.

I wanted as many evergreen perennials for the front lawn as possible. I chose a Pineapple Guava to go in the front corner of the walkway, closest to the house. Above-ground edible plants, grown at least ten feet from the septic drain field are considered safe to eat, so I was able to squeeze in at least one edible plant in my tiny front (septic system-filled) yard. I filled in a large triangle of space with mulch, stepping stones, solar lights, and the guava. This eliminated a substantial previously grassy area of front lawn before I even started the grass-alternative planting. I’m slowly filling in that area with small plants as the mulch settles and I’ll have time to make those choices without feeling any pressure to rush. I’ll probably add some potted herbs in the mulched area as well. The area closest to the house will also be developed into a dye garden as I find time.

Great Grass Alternatives For Florida

Frog Fruit (Phyla nodiflora) – Florida Native (as well as at least 20 other states)

This adorable ground cover is also known as Turkey Tangle or Matchhead. It provides nectar for bees and butterflies and is also a host for butterfly larvae. It is a low-growing evergreen perennial that is native throughout Florida and thrives in our sandy soil. As a bonus, Frog Fruit will spread quickly in both full sun and partial shade.

The only real downside to Frog Fruit is that it’s not frost-hardy, but once established it should bounce back in the spring if our temperatures drop too low. Rooted cuttings can be planted about 12 inches apart as each plant will grow about four to six inches high, sprawling up to an impressive four feet wide. It can take up to three years to fully fill in and sprawl. Once it does, it is both drought- and flood-tolerant. I plan to baby the frog fruit planting for about a couple of years until it is fully established. After that, I expect it to be low maintenance.

Flowers are small and white, blooming from late spring through fall. Frog Fruit should spread rapidly, but can be contained simply by edging. Once established, it should survive light foot traffic. During colder periods in the winter, the leaves will turn reddish purple.

In Latin, nodiflora simply means that flowers will emerge from nodes. When propagating from cuttings, it can also root and branch at the nodes. In this way, it spreads really quickly! (See my single stem cuttings above, already filling in nicely.)

Growing zones: 8-11

Medicinal Properties: The leaves and stalk have been used to treat constipation, indigestion, liver disorders, respiratory issues, fevers, and pain relief. The plant has shown antibacterial activity against bacteria such as E. coli, Pseudomonas, and Staphylococcus. It is also anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. Dried leaves can be made into a tea or used medicinally.

Perennial Peanut (Arachis glabrata) – Not a Florida Native

Plant perennial peanut in early spring, and by summer, it should be dense enough to choke out most weeds. It is a nitrogen fixer that will improve soil and minimize erosion. It prefers full sun, and sandy, well-drained soil, but does require at least 30 inches of rain per year. Here in Dunnellon, Florida, we receive an average of 52 inches per year — mostly during the summer — so this is no problem. Mulching between plants, until established, will help the plants retain moisture during the heat of the day and help suppress weeds until they’ve filled in.

While it may go dormant after a winter frost, it should return from rhizomes in the spring. Although perennial peanut plants aren’t considered invasive, once established, they will spread by underground rhizomes and may creep into areas where they aren’t wanted. Edging will help keep the plant contained.

While these ornamental peanuts don’t produce nuts, the yellow blooms are edible. Ours is planted over a septic system, so this will not be happening for me!

Growing zones: 8b-11

Sunshine Mimosa (Mimosa strigillosa) – Florida Native

A low-growing native Florida ground cover, Sunshine mimosa attracts butterflies and also serves as a host plant for their larvae. It will grow in full sun to part shade but needs to be watered often until established. Sunshine Mimosa stays green from spring through fall but goes dormant in winter. Its green, sensitive leaflets fold up when touched. Although it appears fragile, it can survive light traffic once it’s established. Sunshine mimosa’s substantial root system will also help combat erosion. It grows only four to six inches high, yet can spread up to ten feet wide.

It blooms from spring to fall with cute flowers that look like little pink pom-poms. Sunshine Mimosa will attract pollinators and is a host plant for the little sulphur butterfly.

In my experience, it is not an ideal candidate for lawn replacement on its own, but is useful to fill in small areas or to mix with other options. Perhaps the best use for Sunshine Mimosa is as a ground cover under fruit trees for its nitrogen-fixing properties.

Growing zones: 8-10/11

Propagation: Seed or Cuttings

Stay Tuned

I will add updates as the front yard experiment develops, so check back if you’re interested in this project. Grass-alternative lawns appear to be gaining growing interest if supplies of these plants are any indication. I plan on offering cuttings and starts of the most successful options in an online shop someday soon. So, stay tuned my fellow plant lovers!

Some Closing Notes About Propagation

To use any of these plants as a grass alternative, it is often cheaper and easier to buy a few plants and divide them or take cuttings.

Take cuttings with a sharp sanitized blade and remove the flowers and all but the top few leaves from the stem so all of its energy and stored carbohydrates will be used for root formation. Put the cuttings in a jar of water and place them in bright, indirect light, changing the water often.

Plants with more than one rooted crown may be divided. If the stems are not joined, gently pull the plants apart. If the crowns are joined at the stems, cut them apart with a sharp knife.

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Disclaimer: The information in this article is intended for educational purposes only. It is not the intention of the writer to offer advice on health care and the information provided on this page is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Please see a medical professional about any health concerns you have.