Recent news got me thinking, which perhaps may appear to some as donning the botanical version of a tinfoil hat. So if pondering potential acts of bioterrorism in our modern life seems foolish, then perhaps skip this post. Or, read on to explore how we might combat the possibility…

Agro-terrorism, specifically, involves using biological or chemical agents to damage plants or animals, or to use pathogens to cause disease in agriculture. In other words, to intentionally harm human life by attacking our food system. And, unfortunately, there are plenty of malicious people in the world who wish us harm.

In recent news, two Chinese nationals (loyal members of the Chinese Communist Party, according to records on their electronics) were arrested for smuggling a potential bioweapon fungus (Fusarium graminearum) into the United States in an apparent attempt at agro-terrorism. This, on top of other pairs of Chinese nationals being arrested for spying on US Navy bases, attempting to recruit spies in our military, recent spy balloons, and (I imagine) many things we aren’t even aware of.

Fusarium species are common filamentous fungi found in various environments like soil, plants, and water systems. Fusarium graminearum is a fungal plant pathogen that can decimate staple crops like grains. They can also cause significant health issues in humans and reproductive defects in both humans and livestock. These molds can spread through soil, decaying organic matter, and inside our homes, producing a variety of allergens and mycotoxins. They are particularly dangerous for people with weakened immune systems.

 In plants, Fusarium can cause wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth, and can be identified by reddish-brown or brown discoloration in the plant’s vascular tissue. While large farms and ranches are more likely targets for agro-terrorism, the fungus can also spread relatively easily in rural communities through windblown spores.

Can an Ounce of Prevention Be Worth a Pound of Cure?

While there was no confirmed plot to use the recently confiscated fungus outside a lab, and the pathogen is already present in the US, it’s still enough to give me pause because the suspects initially lied about transporting it. Another recent instance involved a Chinese student having a friend ship some fungus Fusarium graminearum hidden in a textbook, according to the FBI. 

I’ve always believed in being prepared and well-informed, if not paranoid. So I’ve researched how to combat potential agro-terrorist threats, and found some simple solutions that are just beneficial to our gardens in combating regular disease and pests. All are organic. Some can be purchased and kept on hand. Others we can make ourselves from common organic ingredients.

Natural & Botanical Fungicides

1. Neem Oil (Azadirachta indica)

• Antifungal, antibacterial, and insecticidal properties.
• Can suppress fungal growth by disrupting cell walls and enzyme activity.
• Use as a foliar spray (0.5–2% dilution) early in the season.

2. Copper Fungicide

• Broad-spectrum fungicide.
• Helps to control and prevent a wide range of fungal and bacterial diseases.
• Use with caution to prevent phytotoxicity or soil buildup.

Cultural and Preventive Practices

To enhance the effect of natural fungicides:

• Rotate crops: Avoid planting cereal crops after cereal crops.
• Plant resistant varieties whenever available.
• Improve drainage to avoid waterlogging, which encourages Fusarium.
• Remove crop residues that harbor spores.
• Use compost teas with high microbial diversity to suppress pathogens.

How to Make Leaf Mold For Compost Teas

I have several live oak trees in my Florida yard, which typically lose their leaves in the spring, and that makes excellent leaf mold. Collect leaves in a well-ventilated container like a wire mesh cage or plastic bin with drainage holes, keeping them moist. Allow them to decompose for at least a year, or until they become dark and crumbly. For faster decomposition, shred the leaves using a lawnmower or a leaf shredder first. Keep the containers in a cool, damp, and shaded area of your garden, away from direct sunlight. Add water as needed. Once they are finished, use them to make the Trichoderma tea recipe below.

Trichoderma Compost Tea Recipe

Trichoderma species such as T. harzianum, T. viride, and T. atroviride are among the most well-researched and effective natural biocontrol fungi for managing Fusarium graminearum and other soil-borne plant pathogens. They also boost plant immunity and root health.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup finished compost or leaf mold (vermicompost is ideal)
• Trichoderma inoculant (optional, if your compost is rich and high-quality)
• 1 tsp molasses (optional, for bacterial-dominated tea)
• 1 tsp kelp meal or fish emulsion (optional)
• 1 gallon non-chlorinated water (rainwater is great)

Pour water into the bucket with other desired ingredients. The dry ingredients can be placed in a porous sack or coffee filters for straining later (think giant tea bag). Stir, and let steep for about a week, stirring again daily. Trichoderma is an aerobic fungus and needs oxygen to thrive. Stirring vigorously and often helps ensure adequate oxygen levels (or aerate continuously with a bubbler or pump).

If you haven’t put the compost in a bag, then strain the tea through a cheesecloth or fine mesh strainer. Return the solids to your compost pile. Apply early morning or late afternoon as a soil drench or foliar spray.

NOTE: Use soon after mixing. Trichoderma is a living organism. Apply in moist soil conditions. Rake back mulch before drenching and then replace it. Not all compost teas contain Trichoderma naturally. It’s more abundant in forest humus and leaf mold than regular hot compost. Ingredients like molasses, kelp, and fish emulsion are added to the tea to help the Trichoderma population proliferate. 

Use as:

• Root dip before planting
• Soil drench around seedlings and mature plants
• Compost activator to boost your piles

Reapply every 2–4 weeks during warm, moist growing conditions.

No single method completely eliminates Fusarium graminearum. A combination approach could include cultural practices, biological controls, and natural fungicides. If all else fails, soil solarization — covering bare soil with clear plastic to trap solar heat — can effectively kill spores and other pathogens.

Is Agro-terrorism a Legitimate Concern?

Agro-terrorism is recognized as a credible national security threat by the USDA, DHS, and FBI. Although there are no confirmed cases of successful agricultural terrorism in the US yet, the threat should still be taken seriously.

While large farms are the primary targets, home gardeners can still play a crucial role in safeguarding local food systems. Here’s what individual gardeners can do to help prevent, detect, and respond to agroterrorism or related biological threats:

1. Know Your Plants and Garden Ecosystem

• Inspect your plants for signs of die-off, strange mold or rot, odd insects, or unexpected plant diseases.
• Keep a garden journal to track normal growth, pest activity, and health patterns so abnormalities are easier to spot.

2. Learn to Identify Pests and Diseases

• Educate yourself on common and invasive species in your area.
• Watch for signs of:
  • Rusts, blights, or wilts that spread unusually fast
  • New insect species that seem out of place or multiply quickly
  • Chemical burn or residue without explanation

3. Practice Good Garden Hygiene

• Disinfect tools and pots between uses — especially when shared with others.
• Don’t share soil, compost, or plant starts unless from a trusted, disease-free source.
• Be cautious with plant swaps and seed exchanges — inspect new arrivals carefully.

4. Be Wary of Contaminated Inputs

• Buy seeds, soil amendments, and compost from reputable, certified sources.
• Be cautious with imported soil or manure, which could contain pathogens or invasive pests.

Design for Resilience

Incorporate permaculture principles:

• Polycultures instead of monocultures
• Closed-loop systems (e.g., composting, seed saving)
• Seed sovereignty and locally adapted varieties

1. Maintaining Mother Plants

Mother plants are healthy, mature specimens kept specifically for cloning, seed saving, or grafting.

Best Practices:

• Choose vigorous, disease-free specimens of heirloom or reliable varieties.
• Grow them in ideal conditions: rich soil, good airflow, and protected from extreme weather.
• Prune regularly to keep them compact and encourage new growth.
• Label and document their variety, source, and traits.

Protection:

• Isolate mother plants from:
  • Potential cross-pollinators (if seed purity is important)
  • Pest-prone areas
• Use organic pest control and disease monitoring to keep genetics clean.

Propagation:

• Clone with cuttings, divisions, or grafts depending on species.
• Allow seeds to mature on healthy plants if preserving open-pollinated lines.

2. Seed Libraries: Home or Community Scale

A seed library is a curated collection of saved seeds, usually of open-pollinated or landrace varieties. Every gardener needs a seed vault in the age of agro-terrorism

Organizing Seeds:

• Store in airtight containers (glass jars, mylar bags, vacuum-sealed packs).
• Use silica packets or dry rice to reduce moisture.
• Label each packet with:
  • Variety name
  • Source (where/when grown)
  • Date saved
  • Notes on traits or performances

Storage Conditions:

• Keep seeds in a cool, dark, and dry environment.
  • Ideal: 32–41°F (fridge) and <40% humidity
• Avoid temperature fluctuations and light exposure.

Rotation & Viability:

• Germination test every 1–3 years (especially for shorter-lived seeds).
• Re-grow and refresh seed stock periodically to keep it viable.
• Log borrowing and deposits if part of a community seed library.

3. Plant Material Storage & Preservation

This includes cuttings, tubers, rhizomes, bulbs, and tissue cultures.

Cuttings & Scionwood:

• Wrap in slightly moist paper towels and store in labeled plastic bags in the fridge.
• Viable for several weeks if kept around 34–40°F.

Tubers & Bulbs:

• Cure first (let dry in a shady, airy place for 7–10 days).
• Store in peat moss, sawdust, or sand in breathable boxes.
• Keep cool and dry (some prefer 45–60°F, depending on species).

4. Documentation and Mapping

Keep a seed and plant ledger or digital inventory of what is grown and harvested each year, and their sources. Record any cross-pollination, heat and drought tolerance, and pest resistance.

Conclusion

Maybe I’ve drifted into hypervigilance. I wish I felt like I didn’t have to be so wary, but vigilance and caution seem necessary in our current world circumstances. We are vulnerable not only to accidental, but intentional attacks of pests and pathogens. But — through a combination of diverse growing practices, frequent observation, awareness, and community cooperation, we can maintain a more secure and resilient food system. 

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